Drink of wormwood

Absinthe, memorialized in the writings of Ernest Hemingway, Jorge Luis Borges, and August Strindberg, has made a legal comeback overseas but remains verboten here.

“You can’t spell it ‘absinthe’ in the U.S.,” said [a Swiss brewer]. “If you say ‘absinthe,’ it’s ‘no, no, no.’ You have to find a way around it.” [The brewery] will seek sales in the U.S. by lowering the potency from 53 percent to 45 percent and changing the label to comply with rules, he said.

(The faux-absinthe varieties available in the States don’t contain wormwood.)


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